Advent Bunting Crafty Make

organic cotton advent bunting

Advent Calendar Bunting

This month we are thrilled with the Crafty Make Ali from Very Berry Handmade has created. It’s a real piece to treasure, and hang up year after year at Christmas. The pockets are a great idea; each year as your child grows up you can theme the treats accordingly. That said we know quite a few grown ups who would like one of these too!

Our organic cotton fat quarters The Works are perfect for this project as you will get just enough to mix and match our designs and colourways.

So go on, have a go at creating your own and please do share the results with us on our Facebook page.


Finished 6


The lovely colours of these gorgeous organic cotton fabrics from Ochre and Ocre are perfect for this Scandi-influenced Advent bunting.

You will need:

0.5m fabric for bunting backs (I used the organic cotton in Madelaine Sage – the polka dot fabric)
0.5m (total) for pockets (I used 4 different fabrics to make up my 0.5m)
4m of 30mm bunting tape, or you can use bias binding
A selection of Christmassy trims, buttons, ribbons & bobble tape
20cm by 30cm roll of wool felt
Fabric suitable to stitch or print your numbers – I used 1 25cm by 35cm sheet of Zweigart Cashel 28 count linen to stitch on
A glue pen (I use one made by Sewline, but an ordinary glue stick will be fine) is invaluable for this project.
A4 sheet of stiff card to make pattern templates

I got the trims, snowflake and heart buttons, wool felt and 28 count linen used for the project from Cloud Craft – you could also get your embroidery thread (if using) from there too.

Pattern notes:
The seam allowance is 1cm throughout.

Cutting out

On your piece of card, draw a rectangle 11cm by 22cm. Mark the centre point of one of the 11cm sides and mark 3cm along on the 2 adjacent sides. Connect the lines on the sides with the centre dot and trim off the corners. Repeat at the other end of the rectangle to create template A. See Photo 1 to see what a piece of fabric cut with this template should look like.

Photo 1

Cut 24 pockets using template A. When you are cutting these pieces make sure that the long edges of the template are parallel with the selvedge so that the pattern runs in the right direction.

Draw another rectangle 11cm by 14cm. Mark a point in the centre of one of the 11cm sides and mark 3cm along on the 2 adjacent sides. Connect the lines on the sides with the centre dot and trim off the corners. This is template B. See Photo 2 to see what a piece cut with this template should look like.

Photo 2

Cut 48 bunting backs using template B.

Making the Pockets

Fold the 24 pieces made with template A in half across the middle so that the points match. Press then top stitch the fold on each piece. Photo 3 shows how the pockets should look.

Photo 3

Decorate the top edge of bunting pocket however you like. I cut six 11cm pieces of four different trims and machine stitched them to the top folded edge. I also added extra buttons and a bobble trim here and there. A glue pen is a really useful tool here for keeping trims and bobbles in place.

Make the numbers

The pieces of white linen I have used are 2.5cm square, and the pieces of wool felt they are mounted on are 3cm square – you can vary this as you like.

You can make the numbers however you like – there are lots of options. You can stencil them with fabric paint, draw them with a pen suitable for use on fabric, cut them out of fabric and applique them using Bondaweb, or stitch them, as I have done.

If you decide to embroider them, the easiest way is to draw a grid of squares (say 6 rows of 4) on some suitable fabric for embroidery, making the squares a little bigger than 2.5cm, use an erasable pen to mark the numbers, then stitch them, then cut them out. Because I used 28 count linen, I could trace my numbers from a print out I had made using word processing software.

Adding the numbers to the pockets

After you have cut your felt and numbers out, use a glue pen or a pin to hold the stitched number centrally on the piece of felt then position and glue or pin the piece of felt on the completed pocket. Machine stitch round the edge of the white fabric to hold both the felt and embroidery in place. I used a contrast red thread. You can now add more buttons, beads and more – whatever takes your fancy. I pulled out a few threads from the linen to give it a frayed effect.

Photo 4


Completing the bunting pockets

Place a bunting back section, right side facing, on your work surface, and put a pocket piece, again right side facing, on top, aligning the points of the pocket and bunting back. I use a little glue in the seam allowance to hold the pocket in place. See Photo 5 for how this should look.

Photo 5

Now add a second bunting back, wrong side facing, and right sides together with the other fabric pieces, on top. Pin in place. See Photo 6:

Photo 6

Stitch round the edge of the bunting pocket, leaving the short straight edge open. Remember to reverse stitch at either end of the stitching to hold it secure. Trim the seams to about 5mm and cut diagonally across the angles to reduce bulk (don’t cut through your stitching!). Photo 7 shows how a pocket should look when it is done.

Photo 7


Turn the pockets right side out, then press thoroughly to create a neat finish. If you have used any plastic buttons or beads, do take care as you iron.

Assembling the bunting

Fold the bunting tape in half lengthways and press. Measure 45cm along the tape and sandwich the unstitched edge of the first bunting piece between the fold at this point. Pin in place, then measure 2.5cm, and place the next pocket. Photo 8 shows what you’re aiming at.

Photo 8

Continue until all the pockets are in place. Measure another 45cm after the last pocket and trim the excess tape.

Stitch along the bunting tape, about 2-3mm away from the edge, to hold it closed and to stitch the bunting pockets into place. Make sure you are catching the back of the tape as you stitch.

Once the bunting pockets are in place, you can turn in the two raw short edges of the bunting tape, if you like, but it’s not essential.

And that’s your bunting all done and ready to hang. Hope it brings some extra Christmassy loveliness to your home!

Finished 1Finished 2Finished 3Finished 4

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